Gastronomy

Dame Prue Leith recalls asking Michelin why she hadn't been awarded a star

Europe / United Kingdom0 views1 min
Dame Prue Leith recalls asking Michelin why she hadn't been awarded a star

Dame Prue Leith revealed she once demanded an explanation from the Michelin Guide editor about why her London restaurant lacked a star, eventually earning one after 25 years. She also discussed her efforts to combat misogyny and bullying in the hospitality industry after reading *Kitchen Confidential* by Anthony Bourdain.

Dame Prue Leith, 86, shared at the Hay Festival how she called the Michelin Guide editor in the past to challenge the absence of a star for her restaurant, Leith’s in Notting Hill, London, which opened in 1969. The editor invited her team to a lunch meeting, where he critiqued minor details like salad dressings and inconsistent bread variety, leading to improvements. The restaurant earned a Michelin star the following year after implementing his suggestions. Leith’s boldness now surprises her, but she stood firm in her belief that her restaurant deserved recognition. She described the Michelin inspector’s meticulous notes, including observations like fluctuating bread selection, which she later addressed. Beyond the star, Leith discussed her reaction to Anthony Bourdain’s *Kitchen Confidential*, which exposed bullying and harassment in the industry. She admitted her initial hiring practices—mostly women and friends—contrasted sharply with the toxic culture described in the book. A young male employee’s sudden departure revealed workplace bullying, prompting her to confront the chef, who dismissed it as ‘joking.’ Leith highlighted systemic sexism, including a Savoy Hotel manager refusing female trainees due to outdated beliefs about menstruation. As head of the Restaurant Association of Great Britain in the early 1990s, she pushed for cultural change, though she faced backlash. Many colleagues privately agreed but publicly resisted, reflecting the industry’s slow progress. Her experiences shaped her advocacy for fair treatment in hospitality, blending personal anecdotes with broader industry reform. Leith’s story underscores both the competitive pressures of Michelin recognition and the enduring fight against workplace discrimination.

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