In contentious times, Maine restaurants ponder how – and if – to take a stand
Maine restaurant owners debate whether to take public political stances amid polarization, with some like Coffee by Design’s Mary Allen Lindemann advocating transparency, while others like DiMillo’s Steve DiMillo prioritize neutrality to avoid alienating customers. Former Foreside Tavern owner Anne Rutherford faced threats after opposing assault weapon supporters but remains committed to restaurants engaging in political discourse, highlighting the risks and ethical dilemmas faced by industry leaders.
Maine’s restaurant industry is divided over whether to publicly align with political causes, reflecting broader tensions in polarized times. Coffee by Design, a Portland-based coffee shop, has long taken clear stances on issues like immigration and reproductive health, with owner Mary Allen Lindemann arguing that business decisions inherently carry political weight. Last winter, the shop joined other local food businesses in displaying signs opposing ICE, signaling a broader industry reckoning over how—or if—to engage in activism. Some operators, like DiMillo’s on the Water manager Steve DiMillo, reject overt political involvement entirely. Describing himself as conservative-leaning, DiMillo insists neutrality is key to maintaining customer comfort, regardless of political affiliation. His approach contrasts sharply with Anne Rutherford, former owner of Foreside Tavern and the now-shuttered Grace in Portland. A decade ago, Rutherford sparked national backlash after declaring assault weapon supporters unwelcome, receiving death threats, fake reservations, and even bullets left on a table. Despite the trauma, she remains convinced restaurants must participate in political discourse to address societal divisions. Chef David Turin, owner of Portland’s David’s and South Portland’s David’s 388, straddles the divide. While personally active in progressive causes like the No Kings marches, he keeps his businesses politically neutral, citing financial pressures and responsibility to employees. Rising costs and social media attacks have made restaurateurs more cautious, as losing even a fraction of customers now threatens survival. Turin’s dilemma reflects a broader industry struggle: balancing personal convictions with the need to sustain livelihoods in an increasingly hostile climate. The debate underscores how political polarization permeates even the hospitality sector. Some, like Lindemann, see activism as a moral duty, while others, like DiMillo, view it as a business liability. Rutherford’s experience demonstrates the extreme risks of taking a stand, yet her conviction persists. The question for Maine’s restaurants—and many others—remains unresolved: Can political engagement coexist with economic stability, or must one yield to the other?
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