Some brands say their jeans are eco-friendly. Here’s how to find a pair that’s actually sustainable

The denim industry’s sustainability claims are under scrutiny as jeans production relies heavily on water, energy, and chemicals during farming, dyeing, and finishing processes. Brands like Shein’s acquisition of Everlane reflect tensions between affordability and eco-friendly practices, as sustainable methods often increase costs. Regenerative cotton, which prioritizes soil health and reduces chemical use, is one solution, but its feasibility varies by region due to climate differences. Cotton farming itself consumes significant water, fertilizer, and pesticides, while dyeing with indigo and finishing treatments—such as stonewashing or laser distressing—add to environmental strain. Wet processes, like stonewashing, historically used pumice stones shipped from Mexico, contributing to emissions, but many brands now adopt enzyme-based or ozone technologies to cut water use. Dry processes, including laser abrasion, reduce labor and water needs but may rely on synthetic fabrics like polyester, which shed microplastics. Experts say transparency in cotton sourcing remains a major hurdle, as supply chains often span multiple countries, making labor and environmental conditions hard to track. Beth Jensen of Textile Exchange notes the industry lacks unified standards, leaving consumers to navigate conflicting claims. Fashion designer Maria McManus avoided traditional denim processing by sourcing raw, unwashed indigo jeans from Japan, bypassing water-intensive finishing entirely. The challenge extends to fast-fashion giants, where low prices and rapid production cycles limit adoption of sustainable practices. While brands promote recycled fibers and low-water techniques, experts warn that true sustainability requires systemic changes in farming, manufacturing, and consumer demand. Without clearer regulations or certifications, verifying a jean’s environmental impact remains difficult for shoppers.